Tayna's Mini Dolls

Iron fabric to shiny side of freezer paper. Be sure your iron temperature is not too high.

Paper side UP, trace two pattern pieces for Skirt and Bodice 1, and two pattrn pieces for Skirt and Bodice 2.

Before removing from paper, using the nail polish, trace along the sides of each piece (width of brush) and let dry. This seals the fabric but will not show when dry. This fabric frays easily so it's important to do this.

When that has dried, lightly brush and dab along each edge and lay silver cord around the curve, leaving straight edge plain.

Do this for all four pieces.

Shorter piece on top, line up straight edges and run a gathering stitch.

Put a line of glue along top of lame skirt.

Pull gathers of overskirts to fit, and tie, being sure finished edges are even in front.

A needle or pick can then be used to tuck edges under bodice at waistline for a finished look and to avoid bulk.

For open hood, put two pieces together exactly as with skirt. Turn upright.

Run a line of glue around entire doll waist. Pull gathers to fit, with finished edges meeting at center of waist in front. Press tightly around doll to push gathers into glue.

If necessary, tie a strip of Saran wrap tightly around waist to hold until dry. Unfinished edge will be covered by belt.

Photo shows jeweled leather collar. At this point, I was still making decisions about her accessories.

For belt, cut a strip from leather wide enough to cover waistline where top and bottom pieces meet. Glue around doll, with edges meeting at center front.

Using Aleene's tacky glue, gold bottle, glue square stud at center front, covering the seam. Space other trims evenly around belt.

Cut strip for collar, width depending on your doll's neck size. Glue around neck, seam at BACK. Glue studs evenly around collar.

Using pattern, cut two gauntlets from leftover leather .

Coat back of leather with glue and fit gauntlet around arm, center point at top of wrist. Smooth tightly front to back, pinching to form seam at center back. Let dry a bit until you know it will hold, then trim excess and smooth seam.

Do second arm, making sure gauntlets are evenly spaced on both arms.

Add studs around upper edge to trim.

For arms, pull hood up out of the way and smooth the fabric tightly to locate arm opening with fingers.

Poke a small hole into opening with scissors or knife blade. With a syringe or applicator, insert Tacky glue into opening, then add a drop of Zap-a-Gap or Crazy Glue.

Immediately insert arm into hole, pushing so that top of arm is tightly against shoulder.

At this point, be sure you have arms in correct posture. Step back, if necessary, for an overall view of the doll.

Swarovsky crystals, included in the kit, can be used to further embellish the boots, bodice, and belt, as you prefer.

Her simple hairstyle is done with the techniques I learned from Dana. If you have not taken one of Dana's wigging online classes click here: http://msatminidolls.minilists.com/wigging1.htm.

With this hairstyle you need very little hair. After creating the hairline with glue I lay one piece from front to back of neck then I lay the other piece from ear to ear. I then then trimmed the hair short and cut the bangs.

Your doll is now complete! Any questions feel free to email me.

If interested in this china painted doll kit visit Lucie's website she has this kit on special for $45.00 Click here: http://luciewinskydolls.com/irena.htm

Click here to download pattern.

I would like to thank Wanna in El Paso for helping me edit the tutorial and making sure the instructions were clear. I love talking but hate writing so without Wanna I could not have done this. She has a great site: http://www.wannainelpaso.com. Thanks Wanna!